Category Archives: Reviews
Leftovers: Little La Lune
A new wave of Cambodian cooking for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by GARY FRIEDMAN / L.A. TIMES In Long Beach’s Cambodia Town, restaurants are measured not only by the heat of their ground pork curries or the tartness of their … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Toni’s Soul Burger and Otis Jackson’s Soul Dog
All-American soul power for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by LUIS SINCO / L.A. TIMES For every restaurant whose menu reads like a doctoral thesis on globalization, there are those that still consider a kind of insular Americana the noblest pursuit. These … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Del Tomate
Argentine-Italian comfort for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by ALLEN J. SCHABEN / L.A. TIMES There’s a kind of heartland excess at many Argentine restaurants, palaces of meat that offer as good a lesson in bovine anatomy as any abattoir. But … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Chimú
Top-tier Peruvian for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by RICARDO DEARATANHA / L.A. TIMES This is Los Angeles’ Peruvian moment, an embrace of Andean flavors prophesied long ago by food futurists who proclaimed the cuisine to be the next big thing. … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Bear Flag Fish Company
The seafood shack of every Southern Californian’s dreams for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by MARK BOSTER / L.A. TIMES Bear Flag Fish Co. is the seafood wonderland we all long for on idle summer days, a fish market-cum-restaurant where brilliant … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Shawarma Palace
A step-up for L.A. shawarma in the L.A. Times: PHOTO by MICHAEL CHAVEZ ROBINSON / L.A. TIMES Among food-obsessed Angelenos, shawarma isn’t as much a point of contention as, say, ramen orcarne asada. At too many of the city’s Levantine restaurants, flaccid, … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Habuya
Okinawan cuisine’s entry into Orange County for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by GLENN KOENIG / L.A. TIMES A skein of flat, linguine-like noodles and shards of ginger are so fine they all but dissolve in the broth. There are pork … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Guisados
The wonderful stews and braises of Guisados for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by ANNE CUSACK / L.A. TIMES Ricardo Diaz is on his way to building a culinary empire with Mexican restaurants that innately reflect the attitudes and fluctuations of … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Chili Chutney
Afghan cuisine arrives in Orange County. For the L.A. Times: PHOTO by MARK BOSTER / L.A. TIMES There’s chutney everywhere: streaked across piles of rice, dabbed on crisp flatbreads, blotted up by grilled kebabs. Jars of the stuff — gleaming … Continue reading
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Leftovers: Zait & Za’atar and Wraps Xpress
Manakeesh‘s Orange County moment for the L.A. Times: PHOTO by KATIE FALKENBERG / L.A. TIMES There’s a moment in a cuisine’s acculturation when a dish morphs into a movement. In Orange County, that moment belongs now to a multinational influx … Continue reading
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